1. The old 'Rainbow' Bridge
2. The Present High-Level Footbridge
Having in the Introduction reached our hump-backed canal bridge, maybe this is as interesting a spot as any perhaps to stand on the bridge and to look both ways, the parapet being an ideal place to lean on, traffic permitting. Views of this arm wending its way towards Aylesbury and the wooden High Bridge which spans the canal, make one think back to those days long before the canal existed, to this centuries old footpath, and maybe a bridleway, through the Dove House Closes, the Mill Hoppers Fields passing the old water mill, which must have been a dominant feature, and so to Long Marston.
Before the type of High Bridge one sees today, an old photograph taken around 1880 shows an unusual structure. Named the Rainbow Bridge, it shows a quaint rounded wooden bridge with a number of people walking over, one lady carrying a parasol. This bridge served the village until, according to parish records, it was blown down during a severe gale of 1889.
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1. The old 'Rainbow' Bridge |
2. The Present High-Level Footbridge |
Looking towards Marsworth, our view is no longer spoilt by the tall chimneys of the cement works, and one now gets an excellent view of All Saints Church. This was a regular walk for villagers on a Sunday evening before St Cross was erected in 1877 and indeed during the incumbancy of the Rev Anthony, 1930-1960, when Wilstone Church was rarely opened.
The Aylesbury Arm of the canal was cut through during 1813-14. Requests had been made by the traders in Aylesbury for a connection with the main line many years previously, but from records, we learn that providing the main with enough water was, with the increasing traffic, becoming more difficult. The authorities were therefore not very enthusiastic about building a branch where all the water went to waste.
At one time a scheme was discussed to cut a branch through to Abingdon but as time passed the sponsors withdrew their support and the arm was terminated at Aylesbury. Not many years were to pass before the age of railways and maybe this had some bearing on their decision. In 1811 however, the Marquis of Buckingham, with more pressure from the Aylesbury traders, succeeded in his application and work on the arm started from both ends during April of that year. It was not until 1813 that Dixons Gap was reached and the arm eventually opened in 1814.
One point of interest along its route was an old public house known to the villagers and barge users as the "Red House". This was situated halfway along the canal and was a regular stopping place not only for bargees, but also for villagers, since it was a very convenient distance for a walk on Sundays evenings when the weather was suitable. Little is known of the origin of this house which could well have been stood there from the 18th century and had probably stood on this site long before the canal came into being. A description given at the turn of the century describes these premises as being a beer house with oil lamps and flag stoned floors kept for many years by a Mr and Mrs Gates. She, a Londoner, was a strict disciplinarian and well suited for many of the rough types who worked the barges. This house was closed just after the last war during the early 1950s.
Wharfs were made at various stages along its route, a large wharf being situated at Wilstone Bridge. The cottage to accommodate the wharfinger and lock keeper stood in the yard behind the present Victory House (which was erected to commemorate the ending of the 1914-18 war). Apart from being a coal storage depot, records exist which show large quantities of hay and straw being transported to London, the boats in general returning with soot and manure.
 The Wharf Today |
 The Wharf about 1930 |
 The Coal Yard & Lock Cottage about 1900 |
Records also exist of soldiers and convicts being transported to the coast from Aylesbury, and of many families who travelled to Liverpool, joining the main canal at Marsworth en route to join ships on their way to America and Canada.
Early this century a Mr Thomas Webb, described as a "higgler" duck and poultry dealer, occupied the earlier wharf house, he being followed by a Mr Gregory and finally by the Jeffrey family, who took over the business in 1908. It was this family who built the present Victory House and the business remained in their possession until 1993, for many years dealers in coal and coke.
 Victory House in 1977 |
 And from the road at about the same time |
The distance to Aylesbury from Marsworth is 6 miles 1.1/2 furlongs with 16 locks 70 ft by 7 ft and nineteen bridges.
These hump-backed bridges, I feel, deserve more mention than previous writers have thought necessary, and it is only in recent years that they have been listed and some work carried out. Wilstone bridge must be nearly two hundred years old and, taking into account the present amount of traffic, not to mention the heavy vehicles during the war years, one is impressed by the standard of workmanship of those days.
The cutting of the canal and the enclosures that followed affected many of the roads and tracks which led into the village or skirted its boundary. Astrope Lane was opposite an ancient way named in our first maps as Netherhead Way. This carried on over the open fields joining the Wingrave Road and carrying on by Marsworth Church. The road into Wilstone was also relaid.
Instead of turning to cross the bridge as now, the old road ran through the present coal yard following the hedge to the three-cornered paddock, turning sharply at the end of the last bungalow boundary and following the hedge, joining the village road just before the turn into the Grange Road Estate. Here again another track named the Upper Head Way followed the hedge bordering the estate, eventually joining the Marsworth Road between the cemetery and the present roundabout.
In the early maps only two properties are marked in this stretch of village road, "The Retreat" and also "The Homestead", both recorded as being large properties in 1719. "The Retreat" was always considered a very old building and, although alterations have taken place in recent years, the rear portion must be some centuries old. The orchard was always attached to this property and, at the turn of the century was, according to Kelly's Directory, owned by a Mr Rose who was described as a General Dealer, Coal Merchant and Butcher. The slaughter house and a number of old buildings stood in the orchard.
This orchard remained attached to the property until 1962 owned by a Mr and Mrs Leigh. Mr Leigh had previously served in the Royal Navy, an engineer officer. He erected a ship's mast with all the yards in the orchard and each Sunday the White Ensign fluttered in the breeze together with the pennants of his rank. A very staunch churchman, he was for many years a churchwarden. When he died in 1962 the property was sold, the orchard cleared and Orchard Place now stands on this site.
For some years questions were being asked regarding the building of more houses in the village and this eventually led to the Rural District Council purchasing the land now occupied by the Grange Road Estate.
The area covered by this estate has a very interesting history. It consisisted of two fields leading through to Rose Lane with an orchard at the rear of the Half Moon.
On the early map of 1719 it was named Back Side Piece and was probably the Village Waste, used no doubt for centuries as a pound where stray animals could be kept.
Grange Road has nothing to do with any building or estate, but was named after an old family who farmed for some centuries in the village. Much more will be written of this family, staunch nonconformists who, during their long stay, did much to improve the education of the youngsters of the village, long before the National School system was introduced in the 1870s.
To make an entry from Tring Road for the sixty houses planned, "Ashcroft", a modern building erected in the early '30s, was demolished. However it was not until 1969 that a start was made, the road and first houses began, and in 1970 the first tenants moved in.
The "Homestead" that followed "Orchard Place" was a much larger house enclosed by a high wall, parts of which can still be seen. This wall can be traced on the 1719 map. Here again, during the 19th century, many alterations have taken place, and one imagines that 300 years ago this was property of some importance. According to old deeds, throughout the 19th century the building became a public house, "The Hop Pole" and, during the later years of this century, was owned by a Mr and Mrs Proctor. Old inhabitants could remember it well, although in its later years it was only an off-licence.
Stables and numerous sheds stood behind these walls, backing on to the road, but nothing more is known of its earlier history although, according to historians, this being marked in with a dark line, could well have had some connection with a Monastic Order.
A small prefabricated bungalow was built in the garden during the war years but this together with the garden was sold and a new house, "The Stables", was built and occupied in 1987.