We move on now to Great Farm, which over the centuries must have played a very important part in the everyday life of our village. If, as the historians tell us, our Village Green dates from the 6th century, it seems fairly certain that prior to the former farmhouse, which was replaced in 1903, other buildings must have occupied this important position.
During 1997 alterations to the barns, to convert them to private dwellings, gave the authorities the opportunity, while excavating for an entrance road, to uncover a small area which gave the impression of previous occupation, and it was suggested that there may possibly have been a prehistoric settlement here, although during the diggings, fragments of pottery and other pieces found did not go back beyond the 10th and 11th centuries. There were however fragments of what appeared to be older footings uncovered. With the knowledge that the older barns, dating from the latter 16th and 17th centuries, were probably tythe barns, it does seem possible that a monastic building could have occupied this site, the fragments uncovered having a tendency to face east.
With no previous records however we must move on to the coming of the Woodman family in 1789.
The Manor at this time was owned by Sir Drummond Smith who had acquired in 1786, all the lands previously owned around Tring by Lord Gore. The Woodmans therefore arrived in the village quite ten years before the enclosures of the open fields, and would have been very much involved in the many drastic changes.
One wonders if they were present at the meeting held in the Rose and Crown on the 19th of April 1797, when it was agreed on "Dividing, alloting and enclosing the open and common fields". It would also be interesting to discover the reason for them moving from their then house at Fleet Marston in Buckinghamshire.
From old family records we find that the family settled in Fleet Marston around 1600 and were yeoman farmers of some importance. This is borne out by the number of memorials in and around the old church of St Mary the Virgin, now a redundant church, maintained by the Redundant Churches' Fund. The church bell inscribed "John Woodman 1746" is now held for safekeeping in Waddesdon Church. With the many changes that have taken place during even the last century, little is left of Fleet Marston, once an important settlement on a Roman Way, and well-established in the Domesday survey of 1086.
Throughout the 19th century from the first Henry Woodman 1789-1834, one can follow them as successive occupants of Great Farm until the 20th century, until they left the farm in 1931.
From Lord Rothschilds taking over the Manor during the 19th century, great alterations were made, not only in Tring but in the surrounding villages, which included many additions to the barns and outbuildings which eventually led at the turn of the century to the demolition of the Old Great Farm and erection of the present more modern dwelling, further back from the pond.
The original house is pictured in an old photograph taken during the 19th century. In this one sees the former members of the Woodman family standing around the pond. The house butted onto the large barn, a brick wall being visible in photographs taken just prior to the present alterations.
Mrs Ashby of Bierton, the last surviving member of the old family, could remember the New Farm House being built and a casket buried under the main doorstep containing a history of the family, together with other articles of interest, papers, etc and a set of coins of the realm.
A very interesting booklet, written by Canon Norwood during his stay as a visiting lay reader during 1920-1923 while a theological student at Kings College London, gives a wonderful description of the village and of the characters he met. The Woodmans were regular attenders at St Cross and he was always made very welcome and spent many pleasant hours in their company. One thing stood out in his memory which he considered of great interest. In the kitchen was a treasure not often to be seen - a complete set of pewter utensils such as were given by King Charles I during the civil war to families who gave their silver to the royal funds.
A study of the census returns throughout the 19th century records that all new additions to the family were registered in Tring. This is no surprise. Tring could account for other members of the family, either farmers, butchers and for many years owners of the Green Man brewery and inn, which stood where the memorial garden entrace is today.
An old photograph of that inn during the 19th century shows a sign with "John Woodman" above the door, but according to old residents, when the area was eventually cleared around 1900, Felix Woodman was the last owner. Also from the census returns one obtains details of the farm and the amount of labour employed. In 1861 this was three men and three boys, the area farmed being 176 acres. Servants were also employed and a nanny when occasion arose. There is also a very interesting detailed account of the wages paid over their years at the farm (see Appendix 1). Within living memory, and until their leaving the farm and moving into the village, the farm was managed by Mr H W Woodman who lived with his three sisters, Ada, Alice and Miriam, Alice being a teacher at Wilstone School for many years.
In 1931 with the many changes that were taking place, which included the change of ownership, they retired from the farm, moving to Lonicera Cottage (now Walnut Tree Cottage) in New Road which, with a large paddock and stables, was ideally suited to their needs.
However they still continued to take an active interest in village affairs. Mr Woodman, who became secretary from the early days of the Working Men's Club, continued in that office until the outbreak of the last war when the Parish Room was taken over by the Hertfordshire County Council and served as a canteen for the many evacuees who arrived on our doorsteps. Alice was the first President of the Women's Institute founded in 1930, a position she held until her death in the 1950s. The last surviving member, Miriam, died in Thame in 1966.
The family many times spoke of the changes which had taken place and could recall the days before the cemetery was opened in 1898. Evidently it was the custom in those days for all interments, apart from those who were buried with their relations in the surrounding villages, to be held in Tring. A wagonette was kept at the farm and used for the purpose of transporting the mourners on these sorrowful occasions. Mr Woodman also spoke of the old beams found in many cottages which he was sure was part of the fabric of the old church.
He made a number of journeys to the Bodlian Library in Oxford searching for the past history and probable site of Wilstone's church demolished in the mid-17th century, and he also attempted to trace an old fire hook, similar to the one hanging on the wall at Ivinghoe Church, which was kept at Chapel End Farm but disappeared. This he was informed had been acquired by a local museum but in neither case could he could add to the information already known. More will be written about the hook when tracing the known history of Chapel End.
During the 1914-1918 conflict many troops were billeted in the village, the officers occupying rooms at the farm, the parade ground being the field above New Road. Questions have been asked regarding the house next to the Post Office Stores which is named Woodmans. As mentioned previously, this was originally two beamed cottages, centuries old, but during the 1950s, becoming vacant, the whole area was cleared, apart from a small piece of wall which had been left for legal reasons. The new property received the name partly because of an old branding iron bearing the letter "W" found on the premises, and this for some years served as a bell pull of the entrance. There is otherwise no connection with Great Farm.
From 1931 until the early '50s when the farm and house was sold to a local farmer, this became of the home of Mr and Mrs Ross CBE, who eventually became a local JP. Mr Ross was for many years Governor of Sierra Leone and, although he spent much of his time in London, he too took a very keen interest in the everyday life of the village. Not many months were to pass before he became President of the local Working Men's Club, a position he held until its closing.
Mr Ross was a very generous man and figured prominently especially in events of national importance. To quote an article which appeared in the local press on the occasion of the late King George V's Jubilee celebration in 1935:
| "Mr Ross CBE gave an address suitable to the occasion. Children's sports followed in the Church Meadow and the children partook tea at 4 pm, in the barn of great antiquity, one which had accommodated similar gatherings of the Victorian reign. After tea Mr Ross presented each child with a Jubilee mug, a bag of sweets and a threepenny piece which he himself had generously provided". |
The article went on to describe in their words "An original idea for providing the music". None of your new fangled loud speakers but a barrel organ was hired for the day. It led the fancy dress procession during the evening, played selections during the afternoon, ending with a concert in the barn made up of all local inhabitants, the stage lighting consisting of oil lamps.
Mr Ross performed his last duty in the village by planting the chestnut tree on the green to commemorate the conronation of our present Queen in 1953.
The pond, which although not mentioned in the 300 years old map, must always have been an asset, not only to Great Farm and those villagers who had the good fortune to own cattle, or the odd donkey or goat, but also as a welcome overnight pause for the old drovers on their way to markets around London. Many towns and villages had an area name the "Pykle", an enclosed field where animals could be rested overnight, and in the vicinity would be an inn where the drover could doss down. Originally the pond must have been fed by a brook running through the field, named many years ago as Cow Croft Furlong. The remants of this brook can still be traced at the rear of the cottages at Wilstone Green but the water itself was piped in many years ago.
During a very dry summer while clearing out the rubbish a six pound cannon ball was unearthed. Although we know that Cromwell's troops were in this area, there are no records of any shots being fired in or around the village.
Returning to the "Top of the Green" cottages, apart from the first two which contained many old beams and must have been centuries old, the following two, Nos. 3 and 4, also contain beams of similar size, the outer brickwork being added during the erection of the remaining row in the mid-19th century. No. 4 not only has timbers throughout the house, but an unusual feature is the floor of the living room which has two levels. This section of the row was 300 years ago marked by a thick line which according to historians denoted a building of some importance.
Did the Romans cross our area in their journeys along the Lower Icknield Way? Some historians believe this to be a possibility. It is interesting to record that a number of Roman coins and part of an ancient horse harness was unearthed on the Moors during 1980, but a coin of more importance was found while digging in the garden of No. 4. This bore the name "Sustantius of Nova", who is recorded as being Governor of Briton from AD96-98. Engraved on the reverse side was "P Metalus Nepos" and was of great interest to the London Museum although, with more of this date being found, it was of very little value and remains with us in the village. So mystery and probably much history surrounds this southern end of our village.
This does not complete other items of interest found while digging the footings of an entrance drive for the two older cottages, now No. 1. Many pieces of very early glass from broken bottles were unearthed, which seemed to point to the theory that, in some distant past, this could have been an inn. No records however substantiate this, but it is well-known that before the coming of the reservoirs in the early 1800s, Deans Lane was a well-built up area, being one of our main bridleways into Tring, so an inn was a possibility. Before passing on to the Green and surrounding farms, it must be mentioned that a lead fire mark was also found in the garden of No. 4, issued by the Royal Exchange Insurance Company around 1800, again this must point to a dwelling well worth insuring.
Chapel End Lane and our Village Green must come next. This Green was recorded as the largest green of any village with its southern boundary being the Lower Icknield Way, its boundary reaching in days gone by as far as the sharp turning at the Village Hall, and recreation ground. Various bridleways led off from this to adjacent villages, and the open fields, Sand Brook Lane, Rose Lane and Chapel End Lane still occupying their original positions. Chapel End Lane, as today, followed the hedge round the close named 300 years ago as Cox Close, later Gravel Pit Field, and now Chapel Fields Estate. This corner was always referred to as Burney Corner. Could it have been where the rubbish of the village was burned? Before the coming of the houses in Tring Road between the wars, this would not have been a nuisance and fires still continued at this spot in the days of the old chicken farm.
Chapel End Lane, after passing the cottages and farms, carried on to the large Benhill Fields (or Bean Hill Fields) and then to Buckland and Aston Clinton crossing the Puttenham Road. This old way, named Rutters Way, lost its name with the coming of the new road system in the early 19th century. As mentioned previously, many questions have been asked regarding the name Chapel End and Church Farm, and of this being a probable pointer to the position of Wilstone's old church or chapel but, as already stated, although its previous existence is known, no name of today's existing fields or close gives any clue to its position.
Until the end of the 19th century, directories and the various old records that do exist, although mentioning the names of occupants, only in exceptional circumstances make any reference to names of our farms and large buildings. These no doubt arrived with a regular postal service, coupled with the formation of the local and rural parish councils. The small blocks of labourers', cottages usually known by their village position, would also have received numbers at this time.
The first names to appear were Chapel End and Church Farm. Mr Gregory and his family moved into Church Farm during 1880. This would be during the building of St Cross. It seems possible that the name came into being during those years. Classed as a grade II mid-17th century building, one imagines this must have held a prominent position in the Lane 300 years ago.
Next to these farm buildings a strip of land is shown named Long Close and this led through into Far Long Close, Pond Close and to the "Wick Mead" field, the field at the lower end of Sandbrook Lane which was the main area for grazing cattle and known as the "Wick" or "Dairy Field". This track or way was no doubt used by the farmers from around the green when driving their cattle through to the "Wick Mead" field, thus avoiding creating a nuisance along the village roads. A few years ago some old documents were discovered under the thatched roof of the cottages giving permission for this purpose. This could not have been a way in general use although one can trace it through to Gubblecote Farm and Lukes Lane.
During the last century the thatched cottages were listed Grade II also, by the early Rural District Council, but these records only mention the two cottages that exist today. Mr Bone however, whose family had lived in this area for many years, gave a good description of three cottages and of the occupants at the beginning of the 20th century.
A Mrs Ellen Philby lived in the cottage nearest Tring Road, followed by a Mr Dean. According to handed down scraps of village gossip, Mrs Philby must have been quite a character. Even when over eighty she walked regularly every Friday into Tring. Her unmarried son, Ernie, who lived with her, was the first person to be buried in Wilstone's cemetery, this during 1888. One wonders if she had her wish that she could be buried near the road. She said it would be nice to hear the ladies' chatting on their way up Wilstone Hill on market days.
Mr Bone and his father for many years were employed in the digging of gravel used by the local builders, and also with broken flints repairing our village roads. He spoke many times of these diggings, the sifting and washing by hand, not only in Gubblecote but in the fields by Great Farm, and the small paddock opposite the present cottages which was named Church Field and originally part of the Village Green. The Green before the enclosures ran very close to Chapel End Farm and Manor Farm, this roughly following Manor Farm's present drive turning along the course of the stream and so through to Pear Tree Cottage and the Lower Icknield Way.
During the early 1950s Mr Gregory erected the house facing Tring Road on Church Field, and this was followed after a few years by the present six bungalows, four occupied during the early 1960s and the remaining two in 1967.
Before however moving on to Chapel End Farm, we turn back again to the Lane. Following on from the Long Close entrance, above Church Farm were two well-marked narrow closes and, although no cottages or barns are marked, backing on as they did to Great Close and taking up most of the length of the Lane, this was a possibility. It was no surprise therefore to find in the enclosure map of 1788 that, ninety years on, a cottage and garden is mentioned. Mary Harding owned all this property including Chapel End Farm, this with eleven other fields or closes round.
Chapel End Farm is by far the oldest building of the two farms and, according to some historians, much of the half-timbered structure is thought to go back to the Elizabethan period. Until recent years very few alterations have taken place since the 18th century.
An extract from the Victorian County History 1908 gives a very good description of this grade II listed building.
| "This building evidently belongs to two distinct periods. The present kitchen and offices have been formed by partitions out of a single stone floored room. The open fireplace has been bricked in leaving a large space behind the modern range. On the right of the fireplace, at a height of eight feet from the floor, there is a wooden door, to which there is no approach from the kitchen, and which must have been reached by a ladder. It opens to a winding staircase, leading from the ground floor to three connected rooms under the roof. A little trap door about two feet square opens under the roof. This part of the house is tiled and the other slated, the slated portion is much larger and contains good square rooms." |
The writer goes on to offer an opinion that Wilstone's old church stood in Church Field, the site of the present bungalows but the 1719 map only gives this as part of the old Village Green land but, as far as is known, nothing of any importance has ever been unearthed on that site.
No other details remain regarding Mary Harding's stay at the farm but, according to Miss Sheila Richards' History of Tring, the Hardings are mentioned where it is recorded they owned quite an area of land around Tring between 1676 and 1798.
Again from the County History of 1908:
| "It is known that many years ago the Vicars of Marsworth, a parish one mile away, used to live in this house, and it is conjectured when the Chapel fell into ruins, there being no need for a priest the house was let." |
Was this the parsonage of those bygone days? and when empty for some time after the demolition of Wilstone Church during the mid-17th century became the residence of the Marsworth Vicars? A search through old records revealed that a John Theede was the occupant during the later 17th century. He is recorded as Vicar of Marsworth at about that time. He was also Head Master of Berkhamsted School from 1706 to 1734. These responsibilities, together with the farm makes one wonder how he fulfilled all his duties but, as well known, it was a common practice for the incumbent to engage a curate, only making an appearance on special occasions.
From the Historical Monuments of Buckinghamshire one finds that this family were well established in the county during the 17th and 18th centuries. Monuments can be found in many of our village churches around Edelsborough, Mentmore, Wing, Wingrave, Marsworth and Ivinghoe.
The fire hook mentioned in a previous paragraph by the late Mr Woodman, hung on the wall of one of the outbuildings, similar to the one which today is fixed to the boundary wall of Ivinghoe Church, used we are told for the pulling down of the half-timbered thatched cottages and ricks in the event of fire. Initials carved in the long handle were "J.T. 1704". Alas the Rev Theede's hook has never been located and church records at Marsworth could add nothing to the details already recorded.
During the 19th century for some years the farm was the home of a Mr Butcher, a relative of the Tring family of that name, who opened the first bank in Tring. A sad but interesting entry appears in the Buckinghamshire Records of 1826. While returning by boat from Velvet Lawn, Wendover "the boat upset about a mile from Wendover and Miss Lydia Butcher and Miss Martha Allen of Leighton Buzzard were drowned". It was estimated that no fewer than 600 people were present at the funeral in Tring.
Joseph Greening, who followed, also came from an old village family, their names appearing in local records throughout the 19th century.
In 1841 Thomas Greening aged 55 years, with quite a large family, was a farm labourer, his place of birth being Marsworth. Joseph, the owner of Chapel End Farm, is first mentioned during 1861-2. A young man of 29 years, he farmed 120 acres and employed six men and two boys with a servant and carter. From then on his name is mentioned yearly until 1902, when it is recorded the property was bought by Mr Gregory, the then owner of Church Farm. 1906 is the last recorded entry of Joseph Greening living in the farm house. In those latter years farming is not mentioned, but an old resident could remember her aunt recalling being Mr Greening's housekeeper, she thought on the death of his wife, helping also to look after his invalid daughter. With no other children mentioned, could this have been Elizabeth Greening whose name appears on the first official register of Wilstone School dated 1867?
Right until the end of his stay in the village, Mr Greening took a keen interest in the school and a number of very old residents remembered him for his generosity, the relaying of the playground and erecting a new fence in 1900.
From then on until just after the last war, members of the Gregory family became residents and it was not until 1954 that the house was again sold. The property, which included Church Field was purchased by Mr Jan Stevens. Mr Stevens was not a person to alter a building of such history and made only a few alterations. The need for a bathroom meant the converting of one of the rooms in the older part of the property and this resulted in the raising of the floor to connect with the main structure. The kitchen area was untouched, the bread oven, flagstoned floors, Victorian plate racks, stone sink, with of course a large pump, and old dairy could still be seen. In fact one could easily follow the description given in the County History of 1908 which included the spiral staircase to the three hidden rooms in the roof, and the main stairs landing containing an old closet.
A keen horticulturalist, he filled his gardens with exotic plants, many from all over the world. Older residents will remember his displays on the Annual Fete Day of the Horticultural Society. He arranged also for a number of well-known personalities to open some of these early shows, Donald Sinden being the first in 1954. Upon his death in December 1987, the whole property was renovated which resulted in the imposing house one sees today.
Again in 1984 Mr Gregory of Church Farm sought permission to convert the older barns into private dwellings. This change was completed and the dwellings occupied during 1986.
Moving on to Manor Farm as we see it today. It was built during the early 19th century as, we are told, a guest house to cater for the large number of visitors to the Grange family. This replaced the centuries old Manor Farm which stood behind the present building. Photographs found some few years ago must be some of the oldest we have of our village, although one cannot go back before the middle of the 19th century. Possibly tese were the work of J T Newman who lived at Pear Tree Cottage, but it is also known that the Granges, too, had a keen interest in photography. In all my enquiries however among the older families, not one has ever mentioned the destruction of this grand old Manor House.
A booklet written in 1932 by Herbert Grange of Tring gives a very interesting account of their family history, how in 1487 their names were recorded as yeoman farmers in Aston Clinton and this can be followed through well into the 17th century. It was however during that century that a branch of the family moved to Tring Ford. This Thomas, son of Henry Grange, was born at Aston Clinton in 1581 and seems to have been the first to have migrated to our area. From Herbert Grange's writings "his widow appears to have lived to a great age, she died at Tring Ford in 1684 and was buried in Tring Church".
During 1718 a William Grange is recorded as being Maltster of Wilstone, and would have been the first of the family to occupy Colyns Farm in New Road. It was however not until 1717 upon his marriage to Jane Wheeler of Cheddington that John Grange is recorded as living at Manor Farm, and in 1720 was described in the Church Register as "Yeoman of Wilstone". Again, quoting the family history:
| "It is believed that they then occupied Manor Farm as a tenant of the Cadwell Estates and it was not actually purchased by the Grange family until William bought it in 1839". The estate remained with the family until 1893. Upon James' death, it passed to his only surviving daughter who, when married, moved away from Wilstone, the property being than leased to Lord Rothschild. |
Two other farms, Colyns Farm with the Malt House at Wilstone and another farm at Tring Ford were sold by James Grange Junior's Executors at his death to the Rothschild Estate. Richard, the last owner of Colyns Farm died in 1848: he was married twice without leaving any children. One other member of the family, William Hitchcock Grange, who was born in 1822, farmed for 45 years at Wigginton where he died in 1892. Miss Nellie Grange, the youngest daughter of Herbert Grange, Tring Grove Farm, was the last member of the family to reside in our district. She was well known in our village, and took a keen interest in all the various changes. She died in Aldbury in 1987.
So much could be written of this family and of the changes they brought to our district, their interest in the education of the village youth, the opening of a Sunday School in one of their many barns, which eventually led to the building of the chapel and school room extensions, which were not only used on Sundays but opened their doors each evening where those interested could be taught to read and write.